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Modern
bonding agents
Bonding
agents, also called bonders or adhesives, are special materials
that stick to the natural nail or, when used in combination with
mono-phase products, optimise the adhesion LCN bonding agents consist
of; HPLN resins,
a special resin providing adhesion and initiator.
The
main and decisive difference between a bonding agent and a normal
modelling gel is that bonding agents contain a special resin for
adhesion. This resin is responsible for the bonding effect. It will
interact with the surface of the natural nail and also with HPLN
resins (this interaction is called polymerisation). These modern
bonding agents are light-cured.
In former times, so-called methacrylic acid was used as a bonding
agent. This chemical is a potent acid, which can cause damage to
the nail as well as irritation of the skin. Today this chemical
is only used in out-dated products.
The
special resins providing adhesion contained in modern bonding agents
are biologically safe. These resins are also used in dental bonders
in order to effect a bonding between the tooth and the filling resin.
Here, as well, dental medicine leads the way. The chemical name
of the most important special resin providing adhesion is 2-hydroxethylmethacrylate
(HEMA).
The
bonding mechanism of these modern bonding agents is based on a process
called the ABI process (adhesive bonding by interpretation). In
order to understand this mechanism, one first has to look at the
construction of the nail.
The
nail consists of several loosely connected keratin layers. The nail
structure of its surface is further loosened by light filing (with
a buffer). The loose fibre structure can be seen under an electron
microscope.
The
special adhesive resins can now penetrate deeply into the nail fibre
structure (penetration process). They draw in HPLN resins. During
the curing process, the special bonding resin and the HPLN resin
combine to form long resin chains that penetrate the fibres of the
natural nail and combine with them to form fibrous balls (the interpretation
process). This ensures the strong binding of the bonding agent to
the natural nail.
The
combination of artificial/natural nail, when applied correctly is
durable, but does not hold indefinitely. This is due to the fact
that the surface of the natural nail continually renews itself.
Scales are formed, reducing the binding area between natural and
artificial nail. This process is further increased when hands are
subjected to difficult conditions such as in a moist environment
(regular contact with water. hairdressers, therapists, doctors,
cleaners etc. The part of the natural nail, which is not covered
by modelling gel, quickly absorbs water and swells. The water also
penetrates the area under the modelling gel after drying, the scales
on the surface become loose, and the contact between artificial
and natural nail is weakened. This is the first phase of the process
called lifting which is why additional, specially developed materials,
are required to meet individuals' needs.
Modern,
light-cured acrylester resins are characterised by: readiness for
immediate use; ease of application; high strength and durability;
elasticity similar to natural nails; being odourless and non-porous.
These
light-cured materials for nail cosmetics meet almost all the requirements
of modern artificial nail services Nevertheless, LCN continues to
search for further improvements by on-going research.
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